Intermittent Crank and No Start - Fuel Pump Just Replaced

I have been having intermittent crank and no start problems with my 2010 Toyota 4Runner. The car has around 186k miles on it. It goes into crank and no start cycle after driving around for a while and then stopping.

Before I was using jump starter pack, which was helping every time, but now it doesn't. Not sure why extra boost would solve the problem. The last several days I had to be towed twice to my house.

When the car was still in crank and no start cycle I started to do the diagnosis. After eliminating NO Spark issue, I moved to NO Fuel issue. I started by spraying starter fluid into intake manifold to bypass fuel pump completely. After several cranking attempts it finally started. The engine hesitated a little bit, burning starting fluid, and then it started to run normally. The car would fire up right away, like there was never an issue.

I started to test the fuel system even further. Power circuit to the fuel pump and fuel pressure were checked, and everything was up to specs shown in the repair manual. Today I replaced fuel pump, hoping that this would solve the problem. The car starts up and runs fine, but I am having intermittent crank and no start issues.

Here is the video of the problem I am describing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai645HFi-UY

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This is everything that has been done and tested on the vehicle.

BATTERY

The battery is AGM battery that is fully charged. I have a battery tester that checks every single thing.

- CCA are at 710A
- 12.5V charge
- Alternator charging AGM battery at 14.5V

...

FUEL

Fuel Pump (just replaced with BOSCH fuel pump)
- Fuse is fine.
- EFI relay is fine.
- C/OPN relay is fine.
- FP is receiving positive input with key in the ON position, but no negative input. With key in START position the pump is receiving both negative and positive inputs.
- Fuel pressure is 50 psi with key in the START position.
- Fuel pressure is 36 psi with engine not running. The pressure don't drop.

Fuel Injectors
- Did a listening test on 5 (couldn't reach the other one). Every one of them clicks. No misfire codes.

...

SPARK
- Did spark test one of the the cylinders. > 1 inch spark.
- No codes for camshaft or crankshaft position sensors.

 

Welcome. Does it start if you hold the key in the start position for a few more seconds?

 

im late to this thread bc ive been dealing with trying to figure out the same issue lately. i haven't replaced as much as the op but to this question, sometimes mine has a delayed crank to start. so if i turn the key, nothing, but if i hold if for another 5 secs or so it'll start up. it doesn't do that all the time but i have the same issue where if i connect a jump it usually starts right up. went to auto zone and they tested the starter/alternator/batter (batter is new) and all passed. it was suggested to me it could be a bad ground but i can't find a grounding diagram. i also checked all my relays/fuses which are good. changed my crank position sensor and now shows the same ckp code p0335 but now shows variable cam timing. which is odd since i found the closest thing to that is a code p0011? i also looked at my neutral safety switch and looks nearly new. my shifter seems fine going into gears and i have the same issue when in neutral when trying to start.

 

did you find the issue? i have the same problem

 

I remember seeing a post to only use OEM fuel pumps. Might be wrong but I remember seeing something to that.

 

Is this issue limited to models with a key as opposed to push to start? Bad ignition switch could be to blame.